Embarking on the Shikoku pilgrimage was a journey I will never forget. For 48 days, I walked over 750 miles, visiting 88 Buddhist temples scattered across the serene island of Shikoku, Japan. Though I’m not a spiritual person nor a Buddhist, I undertook this pilgrimage for the experience and the adventure. I was accompanied by two friends who share the same non-religious perspective. It turned out to be a once-in-a-lifetime experience that profoundly impacted all of us.
The Historical Significance of the Shikoku Pilgrimage
The Shikoku Pilgrimage, known as Ohenro, offers a spiritual journey with deep historical roots. Pilgrims visit many of the 88 ancient temples, which were established between the late 16th and 17th centuries. The revered Buddhist monk Kukai, also known as Kobo Daishi, initiated this remarkable pilgrimage in 815 at the age of 42. His vision and teachings continue to inspire people from around the globe to embark on this journey.
The pilgrimage forms a circuit ranging from 1200 to 1460 kilometers. It encircles the island of Shikoku and passes through all four of its prefectures: Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime, and Kagawa. This extensive journey not only covers a significant geographical distance but also offers a deep dive into Japan’s historical heritage. Pilgrims walk the same paths that have been traveled for centuries, connecting with the spiritual and cultural legacy left by Kobo Daishi.
The Cultural Experience of the Shikoku Pilgrimage
The Shikoku Pilgrimage offers more than just a physical journey; it provides a rich cultural experience. Pilgrims immerse themselves in the abundant natural surroundings of Shikoku, the least developed of Japan’s main islands, from its rugged coastlines to its serene forests.
People undertake the Shikoku Pilgrimage for various reasons. For instance, spiritual or religious motivations draw some people. They seek to honor Kobo Daishi and the teachings of Shingon Buddhism. On the other hand, others embark on this journey for personal reflection and growth. They use the pilgrimage as a time to contemplate their lives and seek positive changes. The physical demands of the pilgrimage, combined with its spiritual aspects, create a powerful experience that leaves a lasting impact on those who complete it.
Throughout the journey, pilgrims, known as “Henro,” encounter a unique blend of solitude and camaraderie. Specifically, the path provides numerous opportunities to meet local residents and fellow Henros from all walks of life. Additionally, the tradition of Osettai, where locals offer gifts and assistance to pilgrims, exemplifies the kindness and hospitality that characterize the pilgrimage experience. These interactions often become some of the most cherished memories for pilgrims, reinforcing the sense of community and shared purpose.
Early Challenges of the Shikoku Pilgrimage
Our adventure began on March 7. The weather was chilly and rainy at times, with some unexpected encounters with snow, creating a picturesque yet challenging start. As we progressed into April, the temperatures warmed up, and we experienced a few rainy days, but overall, we were fortunate with the weather and avoided any severe conditions. On average, we walked 16 to 18 miles a day, with our longest single-day trek stretching to 23 miles.
The first week was exhausting, with even 10 to 15 miles of walking causing our feet to throb with pain. However, after a good night’s rest, we were back on our feet the next day. Within two weeks, our bodies had adapted to the daily physical demands, and the walking became much easier. Aside from a few minor blisters, we were fortunate to avoid any major health issues, thanks to my fellow Henros who were more prepared than I was with first-aid kits.
Heartwarming Encounters and Unforgettable Hospitality
To manage costs, we primarily stayed in guesthouses and hostels, but occasionally, we indulged in the comfort of business hotels. While it was sometimes nice to stay in hotels, the guesthouses and hostels left the most memorable impression on me. Our hosts at these places cooked incredible homemade vegan meals upon request and mingled with us as if we were part of their family. These moments made our tiredness and aches disappear, filling us with happiness.
Despite the physical challenges, the people we met along the way truly made the pilgrimage gratifying. The camaraderie among fellow pilgrims, known as “Henro,” from all over the world added a rich layer to the experience.
The locals were incredibly welcoming, even at coffee houses where we met numerous business owners eager to chat with us using Google Translate. They often offered us free drinks and food as Osettai. This level of hospitality is rare in our modern world and felt very special.
It was my first time in Japan, and the kindness of the Japanese people left an indelible mark on me. We received various gifts, including money, candy, food, and even fresh coffee from a lady on a bicycle. People of all ages and backgrounds performed these acts of generosity, displaying a gentleness and graciousness unlike anything I had ever encountered.
A Journey of Scenic Beauty, Cultural Heritage, and Human Kindness
The Shikoku Pilgrimage is a transformative journey that immerses you in the scenic beauty and rich heritage of Shikoku, blending time and culture. This pilgrimage takes you through the island’s diverse landscapes, from rugged coastlines and dense forests to tranquil temples and quaint villages. Each step along the way offers a new perspective on Japan’s historical and cultural tapestry.
Whether driven by religious devotion, a quest for self-discovery, or the thrill of adventure, pilgrims find the experience deeply enriching and memorable. For many, including myself, the pilgrimage goes beyond the physical act of walking. It’s an opportunity to reflect on life’s path, to find clarity and peace amidst the serene surroundings. The journey challenges both body and spirit, fostering a sense of accomplishment and inner growth.
For us, this pilgrimage was not just a physical journey. Instead, it was a profound lesson in the kindness and hospitality of the human spirit. The interactions with fellow pilgrims and the local residents were heartwarming and uplifting. The tradition of Osettai exemplifies this spirit of generosity and compassion. These acts of kindness, whether a simple smile, a warm meal, or a place to rest, made each day special and reminded us of the goodness in people.
What began as an adventure ended with lasting memories and connections that we will cherish forever. The bonds formed with fellow pilgrims, the stories shared over meals, and the quiet moments of reflection at ancient temples all contributed to an experience that was both humbling and inspiring. The Shikoku Pilgrimage taught us the value of perseverance, the beauty of simplicity, and the power of human connection. It is a journey that leaves an indelible mark on the heart and mind, transforming the way we see the world and our place in it.
